This Rolex Cosmograph ref. 6239 strikes the perfect balance between sportiness and luxuriousness. Thanks to its sharp stainless steel case, screw-down pushers and contrasting “panda” dial, it achieves an unmistakable presence on the wrist. As the very first of the Daytona reference, it is also a historically significant piece, and features small, distinctive details which collectors enjoy pouring over.

This watch was previously featured on Monochrome’s Series, in 2016, when it was owned by , the author, photographer, and all round watch-obsessive. Haagen acquired the Cosmograph from the original owner, who had left the watch in a drawer, since in 1965, as one of the pushers had come off (and was replaced with a service pusher, during its first ever service, carried out by Rolex, in May 2015).

The origins of the Cosmograph begin in 1963, with the reference 6239. Designed as the ultimate tool watch for endurance racing drivers, the Daytona, featured clean styling, with excellent resistance to both shock and moisture. The original concept was ‘The Rolex LeMans’, featured in early Rolex advertisements. In 1964, Rolex later introduced the “Daytona” signature to the Cosmograph dial, signifying the brand’s sponsorship of the annual 24 Hours of Daytona race, held in Daytona Beach, Florida. The signature was first placed at 12 o’clock, under the word “Cosmograph”.

The earliest reference 6239’s pre-dates the “Daytona” signature, though still the designation is used, given their importance to the entire Daytona line. These examples were also the first Rolex chronographs to feature the tachymetric scale directly on the bezel, rather than printing on the outer-circumference of the dial. The engraved tachymeter served to improve the legibility of the indicators, while the subsidiary registers were also printed in contrasting colours, against the silver and black, base-colour dials.

This Cosmograph Datyona 6239, from 1964 (with serial number 109XXXX), has its original, sunburst Soleil silver dial, with ’ROLEX’ and ‘COSMOGRAPH’ references, and T Swiss T at 6 o'clock. With this example, the original tritium hour markers are entirely complete, with the Daytona handset displays a similarly impressive condition. It has its correct sub-dial hands, showing a slimmer hand at 9 o’clock and tapered hands for the remaining registers.

Sized at 37.5mm, the case is superbly preserved, with clear edges displayed on its lugs and defined case-back milling on the reverse. The brushed finish on the lugs is clearly visible, while the polished sides are in excellent condition. The watch also has its original tachymeter bezel, Twinlock crown and comes equipped with its stamped, Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet and clasp (stamped 2 64). The original bracelet is also preserved in excellent condition, with minimal stretch throughout and correct ’57’ end-links.

Inside the watch, it houses a 17-jewel, manual-winding Valjoux 72 movement (or “72B”), signed “Rolex Geneve” - the same tried and tested column-wheel chronograph calibre, famed for its reliability, and shared by many of the era’s most iconic timepieces. The mechanism features a Breguet overcool hairspring, adjustable-inertia balance wheel, and a KIF shock-absorber, beating at a rate of 18,000 A/h, with a power-reserve of approximately 46 hours.

The Rolex Daytona represents one of the most celebrated watches in the brand’s history. Considered a “grail” piece by many collectors, this ref. 6239 represents a key inflection point in advancement of the Rolex sports chronograph, and thus a special piece in the evolution of the line. The Daytona has undergone many subtle design alternations over the years - in some instances, starting entirely new categories. The reference 6239, is an early, important and understated Daytona, that rightly elicits attention from the wider Rolex community.

This Rolex Cosmograph ref. 6239 is accompanied by its Rolex outer box, inner box, and Rolex service card from May, 2015. It also comes with a Rolex strap, and Rolex stainless steel buckle.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Closer look

The case of this Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (ref. 6239) is preserved in excellent vintage condition, with strongly-defined bevels. On the reverse, the milling on the case-back is well preserved, with marks/grazes visible throughout. The case is original to the watch, with corresponding serial numbers, to the production period.

The inner-case-back also correctly displays the watch’s reference number (6239) and classic Rolex signature - with no visible servicing marks. The applied hour markers are (original) tritium, matching the handset. Response under UV light shows appropriately matching luminosity, reacting consistently with documented, original examples. The dial of this ref. 6239 is further distinguished by its condition, with light superficial marks around the lime plot at 3 o'clock. The Oyster bracelet has minimal stretch, with stamped ends links (57) and corresponding references on the clasp (2 64). The Valjoux 72 calibre movement of this ref. 6239 comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.